Dual Isuzu Transfer Cases Project

[SAS]

 Way more tolerable to drive now that its not just an open header on a 4cyl.

I know that feeling--I changed the manifold to down-pipe on my Trooper recently, but started too late in the evening to get it completely done, so I drove it the next day--made the Harley's jealous!!!

Any updates on the mod...had any issues in the 3x weeks you've had it to this stage?

I'm curious if you blue-printed any of your stuff, i.e. adapter plate, etc.?  There's a guy on 4BTswaps that put a mercedes turbo-diesel in his Toyota pickup, using the OEM 5-speed/T-C.  He thought it was such a simple swap that he took his parts to a machine shop and is now selling a "kit" for 25% less than a shop which has been promising a conversion kit for the past two years, and just finally put it on the market.

You've got mad skills Sean, we all love to see your projects!

[strawmyers]

It drives "okay"... certainly won't be taking any 2+ hour road trips with it anymore.  I haven't really had time to try to take it to Attica.  I am going to trailer it on the maiden voyage just in case.  The only thing I outwardly dislike is how low everything hangs.  I guess a SAS would get things higher off the ground; but that's an even bigger project that I'm just not up for right now.  Focusing on getting the 4-wheeler going.  I pulled the flywheel tonight so I can remove the crank and start reassembly with new parts.  Weather is supposed to be nice in Slade this weekend, though; so we're climbing!  I'm glad you guys like the projects.  I enjoy DOING them when things are going well and always enjoy the end result.  I doubt blueprinting the adapter would be worth it for me.  Less than a handful of 'Zu owners have tried this project that I know of.  Even fab guru Houlster scrapped it 1/2 way through in favor of his current set-up.  If it was bolt-on, maybe.  Since its all custom cutting and welding, I'd assume anyone up for the project has the ability to make their own.

[psguardian]

Wow, just Wow. Outstanding fab work.
Would this be easier or harder on an 88-91 Trooper? I am really interested in this mod for my rig. (once its running lol)

After having read your thread 2 or 3 times I have a few wonderings... Could you have left more of the 'pass side' on the front T-case & just made a channel for the front drive shaft? Since its stationary (other then tranny/frame flex) I would think the volume reduction within the front T-case could have been less drastic this way, and therefore more reasonable for a Daily-Driver type rig (as mine will be).
Can two T-cases from an auto be used on a 5spd? (Or 1 auto T-case & 1 manual) Can't afford the Revolution Gears (teraflex sold the teralow 3.07 design so it is now marketed under this) that are sold over on indy4x so auto T-cases would be next best thing. By no means raining on your work, friggin' outstanding set up, just thinking of ways to further improve the application for us wknd warriors that want 70+:1 

~psguardian

[BigSwede]

Can't comment on most of this, but remember that most Isuzu manuals have an integrated t-case.

[strawmyers]

Thanks for your interest   Steve is correct.  The front t-case is integrated to the tranny and therefore must be utilized.  The front output on the front case really cannot be salvaged much/any more than what mine is simply because of the tight space to fit the front driveshaft past it.  And certainly not when I do a SAS down the road and the front driveshaft with have to move up and down.  You might be able to maintain a little more volume; but probably not enough to make a huge difference and if you ever did a SAS down the road you'd be redoing it... what a pain! 

The fab work would be the same for a Trooper; but the overall outcome would likely be better (more streetable) due to the longer wheelbase.  Fluid volume isn't as much of an issue for me as the super stubby rear driveshaft.  A feed and return line, pump, and remote resevoir could easily be added if things got too hot on the road.

[psguardian]

Didn't consider future mods like SAS, yea doing that front case again would burn a little as you drop the tri-box setup... Also I forgot the 'til death do you part' tranny/t-case marriage on the MUA5 lol. I wonder if the 2nd T-case would fit within the span of the stationary half of my 2-piece rear drive-shaft? do I shorten that one up & keep the stock angle with that nasty carrier bearing people always talk about hating? or Just cut it out & have a new tube fitted with my ends, giving me a slightly nicer U-joint angle? (I think typing this out I really answered my own question, but I'm leaving it in lol).
Could this be done without welding the alum? Or is that really the only feasible way to seal up that gaping wound in the front T-case? (No welder currently, will have to keep an eye ball out for one w/an alum gun attachment if needed)


So with an auto T-case for the back I should be able to push my crawl ratio from stock;
039:1(1{eng}*3.767{man 1st}*2.28{man t-case}*4.56{diffs}= 39.~) all the way to
104:1(1{eng}*3.767{man 1st}*2.28{man t-case}*2.66{auto t-case}*4.56{diffs}=104.~)
That's if my math is good  .  MAN... wish I could get so revolution gears for my manual T-case 140.~:1 (or in a dream world for both cases 161.~:1) would be REALLY nice lol. Thanks for the feedback.

~psguardian

[strawmyers]

The only other option would be to drill and tap both halves of the case for a block-off plate; but I doubt that it would be very feasible.  There isn't a lot of material there to bite into.  In terms of welding, covering that hole will be the easy part.  The adapter plate needs welded on as well.  That will be tougher simply because you're welding 1" aluminum to ~1/4".  Hard to keep enough heat in the 1" piece for good penetration.  How much welding have you done?

[psguardian]

The only other option would be to drill and tap both halves of the case for a block-off plate; but I doubt that it would be very feasible.  There isn't a lot of material there to bite into.  In terms of welding, covering that hole will be the easy part.  The adapter plate needs welded on as well.  That will be tougher simply because you're welding 1" aluminum to ~1/4".  Hard to keep enough heat in the 1" piece for good penetration.  How much welding have you done?

None in the last 10yrs (I helped a friend weld the kickstarter on his enduro when I was 18-19) so really... none lol. I will not have an aluminum piece, let alone a mission critical piece, as my first works. I just wondered if it could be done otherwise, making a giant O-ring groove wouldn't really be any good either would it? No I'm just going to have to get good at welding so that in a year or three when I'm really ready to pull this off I have the alum weld skills  . Oh well lol. Was worth asking anyway.

~psguardian